Sign up for email newsletters

Sign up for email newsletters

You may revere Tanya Holland for her iconic fried chicken and waffles from the days of Brown Sugar Kitchen. But this dish, from the Oakland chef’s forthcoming cookbook, “Tanya Holland’s California Soul: Recipes From a Culinary Journey West” (Ten Speed Press, $35), will give you newfound appreciation for Holland’s poultry prowess.

These chicken thighs, braised until the meat falls off the bone, are served atop a bowl of smoky white beans simmered in a homemade barbecue sauce. In a pinch? Use store-bought sauce thinned with a half-cup of chicken broth. Holland approves.

The much-anticipated “Tanya Holland’s California Soul” book publishes Oct. 25.

½ cup chicken broth, vegetable stock, or beer

1 cup diced or crushed tomatoes

1 tablespoon coarse-grain or brown mustard

4 to 6 bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs

Salt and freshly ground pepper

2 tablespoons neutral oil, such as avocado or grapeseed, as needed

1 small yellow onion, finely chopped

1 small bell pepper (green, red or a mixture), stemmed, seeded and finely chopped

½ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes or ½ jalapeño chile, minced

3 cups cooked white beans (from 1 heaping cup dried beans or two 15-ounce cans, drained and rinsed)

1/3 cup chicken broth, vegetable stock or beer

Fresh Italian flat-leaf parsley, chopped

Season the chicken all over with salt and pepper and set aside.

To make the barbecue sauce: In a small saucepan, combine the chicken broth, tomatoes, tomato paste, vinegar, Worcestershire sauce, sugar, molasses and mustard and whisk to combine. Bring to a simmer over medium heat and cook until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Set aside.

In a 12-inch ovenproof skillet with a lid (cast-iron is great) set over medium heat, fry the bacon until the fat renders and the bacon crisps. Transfer the bacon to a paper towel-lined plate to drain, leaving the fat in the pan. Discard all but 2 tablespoons fat (or add oil, so you have about 2 tablespoons of fat in the pan). Increase the heat to medium-high.

Add the chicken, skin-side down, and sear until well browned, about 5 minutes. Turn and brown the other side, about 3 minutes. Transfer the chicken to a plate.

Heat the oven to 350 degrees.

Pour out all but 2 tablespoons of the fat from the pan. Reduce the heat to medium and add the onion, bell pepper, celery and a pinch of salt. Cook, stirring, until the vegetables become tender, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and red pepper flakes and stir to combine. Stir in the beans and reserved bacon. Set aside ½ cup of the barbecue sauce and add the rest to the bean mixture along with the chicken broth. Bring the mixture to a boil, lower the heat to medium-low, cover the pan and let simmer, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes.

Return the chicken to the pan, skin-side up. Cover the pan and transfer to the oven. Roast until the chicken is cooked through, about 30 minutes. Let sit for 5 minutes. Sprinkle with the scallions and parsley and serve, passing the reserved barbecue sauce alongside.

— Tanya Holland, “Tanya Holland’s California Soul: Recipes From a Culinary Journey West” (Ten Speed Press, $35)

Sign up for email newsletters