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Pupusas with bean and cheese filling and a side of curtido make a wonderful meal. Globe | Amanda Stone

Unlike tamales, pupusas can be made easily and quickly by one person.

Pupusas with bean and cheese filling and a side of curtido make a wonderful meal. Globe | Amanda Stone

Unlike tamales, pupusas can be made easily and quickly by one person.

There’s pretty much never a time I don’t want tamales, which is a problem if you’re in the business of not denying yourself simple pleasures like I am. Unfortunately, making tamales is not simple in the slightest. They are a labor intensive endeavor.

Enter pupusas. It’s not fair to compare, but the ingredients in pupusas and tamales are essentially the same, and pupusas totally fit the bill for a weeknight meal.

Tamales do not, not even in my wildest tamale dreams. They’re saved for special occasions, such as Christmas, when families gather assembly-line style to make the magic. Pupusas are a solo effort, and they shine all on their own.

I fell in love with pupusas at first bite. Years ago, a dear Salvadoran friend introduced me to bean and cheese-stuffed corn flour (masa harina) patties. Her grandmother made them, and she gave me a quick lesson. Easy peasy.

My pupusas continue to be not as delicious as her grandmother’s, but they’re pretty good. They do the job. Yours will too.

These days, pupusas can be found at a couple of local restaurants in Carthage that I know of for certain, but I’m sure there are others around. El Quatzel’s are delicious. If you’ve never had them, start there for the real deal. Then make your own. They really are easy to make and so, so good.

My go-to pupusa filling is mashed beans and cheese, but when you’re making your own, anything goes. Smooshed sweet potato or butternut squash, sauteed greens and shredded squash, or leftover taco meat are all great.

Pupusas are perfection, but without their crisp, tangy sidekick curtido, there’s just something missing.

Curtido is a simple cabbage slaw that you don’t want to skip unless it’s a desperate-times situation. It’s dressed with vinegar and a little sugar, and is everything that is right in the world.

Pupusas are all smooth, yummy-soft, while curtido adds a wee bit of crunch, texture and salty tang. Add some jalapeno or hot sauce, and you’ll make dreams you didn’t even know you had come true.

Double or triple this pupusa recipe for some freezer grab-and-go meals that will delight.

3 cups (11.8 ounces) masa harina (such as maseca)

2 3/4 cup cold water (from the faucet is fine)

2 cups (7.5 ounces) shredded mozzarella (or Oaxacan cheese or any other melty cheese)

1/2 cup pickled jalapeño peppers diced

1/2 cup diced roasted butternut squash

Lime, salsa, curtido and cilantro for serving

2 tablespoons olive oil or neutral oil

In a medium bowl, whisk together the masa harina and salt. Pour in the cold water and using a spatula stir the masa until mostly combined. Then, using your hands, mix the dough until a very soft dough forms.

For your hands, add the water to a measuring cup and pour in the oil. Lightly dip your hands in the water/oil mixture, making sure your palms are evenly coated so the masa won’t stick to your hands.

Working one at a time, flatten the balls gently until they’re 1/2-inch thick discs. Place a tablespoon or two of mozzarella cheese, a small bit of diced jalapeño and squash or beans into the center and wrap the dough around the filling creating a half moon shape. Pinch the edges to seal it completely. and then pat the dough gently, flattening it and alternating hands until it reaches about 1/4-inch thick and about 4-inches in diameter.

Feel free to re-grease your hands as needed. Repeat with the remaining balls of dough.

Meanwhile, preheat a cast iron skillet over medium heat. Add a teaspoon of neutral oil and brush the surface with a silicon brush.

Add the pupusas to the pan, fitting two to three at time. Or use a griddle. Cook each pupusa for 4 to 6 minutes per side and then transfer to the baking sheet in the oven. Repeat this process until you’ve worked your way through all of the pupusas.

1/2 small green cabbage, cored and very thinly sliced (about 4 cups)

1/2 medium white onion, peeled and very thinly sliced (about 1/2 cup)

2 carrots, peeled and shredded (about 1/2 cup)

1 small jalapeño, ribs and seeds removed, minced (optional)

In a large bowl, toss together cabbage, onion, carrot, and jalapeño, if using. In a saucepan, combine vinegar, salt, and sugar over medium heat, stirring, until salt and sugar are just dissolved.

Pour brine over vegetables and toss. Cover and refrigerate for 1 hour before serving.

Amanda Stone is a food and gardening columnist for The Joplin Globe. Email questions to amandastone31@gmail.com or mail her c/o The Joplin Globe, P.O. Box 7, Joplin, MO 64802.

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